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History
One of the first pictorial depictions of a hat appears in a Thebes tomb painting which shows a man wearing a coolie-style straw hat. Other early hats were the Pileus, a simple skull cap; the Phrygian cap, worn by freed slaves in Greece and Rome; and the Greek Pestasos, the first known hat with a brim. Women wore veils, kerchiefs, hoods, caps and wimples. Structured hats for women similar to those of male courtiers began to be worn in the late 16th century.[4] The term ‘milliner’ comes from the Italian city of Milan, where the best quality hats were made in the 18th century. Millinery was traditionally a woman’s occupation, with the milliner not only creating hats and bonnets but also choosing lace, trimmings and accessories to complete an outfit.[5]
In the first half of the 19th century, women wore bonnets that gradually became larger, decorated with ribbons, flowers, feathers and gauze trims. By the end of the century, many other styles were introduced, among them hats with wide brims and flat crowns, the flower pot and the toque. By the middle of the 1920s, when women began to cut their hair short, they chose hats that hugged the head like a helmet.[6]
Hat design
A hat may consist of four main parts:[7]
- Crown, the portion of a hat covering the top of the head.
- Peak (British English), visor (American English), or bill, a stiff projection at the front, to shade or shield the eyes from sun and rain.
- Brim, an optional projection of stiff material from the bottom of the hat's crown horizontally all around the circumference of the hat
- Puggaree/riband (British) or hatband (American), a ribbon or band that runs around the bottom of the crown above the brim.[8][9]
- Sweatband, the strip of leather (or sometimes ribbon or other material) attached to the inner circumference of the hat to stop sweat from soiling the main body of the hat and may be adjustable with a cord or rope on certain hats.
- Lining, for some hats there is a silk lining, often bearing the maker's name and label.
Famous hatmakers
One of the most famous London hatters is James Lock & Co of St James's Street.[10] Another was Sharp & Davis of 6 Fish Street Hill.[11] John B. Stetson is a well-known American hat company.[citation needed] In the late 20th century museums credited London-based David Shilling with reinventing hats worldwide. Notable Belgian hat designers are Elvis Pompilio and Fabienne Delvigne, whose hats are worn by European royals.[12] St. Clement, the patron saint of felt hatmakers, is said to have discovered wool felt when he filled his sandals with flax fibers to protect his feet.[13] Philip Treacy OBE is an award-winning Irish milliner who designs hats for the most important designers in the world and for such women as Sarah Jessica Parker and Lady Gaga.
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